I'm not into the science aspect of hair very much - plenty of other bloggers have great explanations that can help you out. I do understand the basics, however, and so I have an idea of what's going on.
For anyone new to the curly girl method or NC.com, I really feel for you. There is SO MUCH info and it's very possible to drown under all the techniques and products. The General Discussion boards are great, but you need to
understand the problem. That's why we don't resort to silicones - they are quick fixes. Awful in the long run.
First and formost, hair type? Means nothing. You could be 3A and use the same products as a 3C without difficulty. The only thing that I think hair types share in common are the dreaded 3A flat top and I've heard rumors of the 3B drag factor. But as for proudcts, you need to focus on something other than hair type.
People say that you should look for your hair twin, and use the products they do. I think that's great, as long as you guys are absolutely
twins. You need to live in a similar area (humidity and dew point* are huge factors), have the same hair thickness, color your hair with the same brand - stalk that person. A small change can throw off the whole routine. I think there's an easier way.
First, preform a couple simple tests. Take a strand of hair and put it in a glass of water. Check it periodically. If it sinks, it's porous. If it floats to the top, it isn't. Mine sunk to the bottom, which means that my hair absorbs a lot of water. I can use hardcore, waxy products and my hair doesn't get weighed down, and I load up on protein treatments and oils to help smooth the cuticle. If your hair's porous, there are gaps that can be filled with oils to make your hair smooth. My hair soaks up conditioners like they're nothing. Crazy hair.
On the other hand, if your hair isn't porous, it's a different ballgame. You couldn't walk into my bathroom and use the products I do, because my condtioners are heavier. If you're trying to narrow down products, find a porosity twin. I think finding one ultimate hair twin doesn't work, but you can use bits and pieces. Find out what they use to help combat low/high porosity and try to find the same ingredients in a product that works with the other aspects (detailed below).
Another good test is the protein snap one. Take a "shed" hair (preferably wet), hold it at each end and stretch it. If it snaps right away, that means it needs more moisture. If it stretches a lot without snapping and doesn't "bounce back", it means you should add protein to your hair diet. What you want is hair that stretches about 20% of it's length without snapping, then goes back to its original length. If you have that, your hair is okay with protein, but make sure to keep a protein condish around in case you need it. If you want to find recs for good conditioners, do a search on the CurlTalk threads or make a thread asking for recs. But please, search first. We get a little tired of repeat threads.
On our beloved CurlTalk, we have a fabulous Deva stylist (StruttsWife) who gave us this amazing tidbit - hair type doesn't matter! Okay, I know I've already said this earlier, but she's in the business, and I figure people are more willing to trust her. Many of the products marketed today - 'color-treated', 'grey', 'blonde' - it's all marketing, to boost sales. Guess those conspiracy theorists were right - we are getting cheated.
The stuff that matters is whether your hair is fine, medium, or coarse.
Fine hair - easily flyaway, does not hold a style well. Often looks dry and brittle, but actually is most likely over-moisturized. Hair products with emollients or humectants should be avoided in favor of protein-based products.
Medium or "normal" texture hair - considered the "perfect" hair type and, if undamaged, responds well to virtually all products and services.
Coarse hair - does not bend and cannot hold a style well. Is often dry and brittle, due to an overabundance of protein. Hair products with proteins should be avoided in favor of products with emollients and humectants.
Now, you might think you have coarse hair, but just have a lot of fine hair. Grasp a hair strand firmly between your thumb and index finger near the root, then run your fingers in the direction of scalp to end. If the hair feels barely there, is very soft and feels kind of flyaway, it's fine. If it feels a bit more substantial, but is still relatively smooth, it's medium. If it feels rough to the touch, it's coarse.
I realize that this is a lot of information, but it's all insanely helpful, believe me. When I first found NC.com, I went out to my local CVS and randomly picked a product. I could have picked a worse product, and that still haunts me, so I decided to help some newbies out. If you're having trouble understanding some of the terms, just leave a comment and I'll clarify. Ingredients make up a product - if you know what your hair likes, you can have fab curls. I hope this helps!
*humidity and dew point will be covered next time.
